Easter in San Miguel de Allende


Semana Santa in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico


In 2019, I was fortunate enough to spend Semana Santa – Easter week – in San Miguel de Allende (or 'SMA' for short), in the Central Highlands of Mexico.


San Miguel de Allende is a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its stunningly preserved 16th-century Spanish Colonial Baroque architecture, and is great to visit at any time of the year. But the week leading up to and including Easter, Semana Santa (or Holy Week in English), is particularly famous for its traditional processions (or ‘callejoneadas’) and displays. Even for those who are not religious, it is a truly beautiful and uplifting experience lasting many days and, as you’ll see below, it ends with a bang!


On this trip, I was travelling light – only taking one old camera with one general-purpose lens. The strong sunlight of Sam Miguel de Allende also favoured post-processing that kept many images high contrast and even silhouetted.

Friday of the SOrrows (Viernes de Dolores)


Our trip to San Miguel de Allende began on the “Friday of Sorrows” a week before Good Friday, which commemorates Mary’s suffering at Christ’s passion. Despite the sad name for the day, locals here actually have a real celebration, opening up their windows and atriums to show off special altars and other displays they have built. In preparation for the day, and the week to come, flower sellers make up bouquets and floral crowns.


Passersby queue to get in to those houses that open their doors, but mostly because of the free drinks, ice blocks and lollipops on offer. It’s also a once-in-a-year chance to take a nosey at the neighbours’ houses – some of which are exceedingly grand old colonial houses, with fountains in the courtyard and mezzanine floors overlooking them.


The air was fragrant with chamomile, which like the lollipops, is handed out freely. Others appeared to be skimping a bit on decorations, because they used leftover papier maché puppets from the Day of the Dead!

Street vendor selling colorful flower crowns for Semana Santa at a market stall in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
Hands arranging vibrant purple and pink dried flowers at a market stall in San Miguel de Allende.
Colorful Mexican handicraft mirrors adorned with vibrant floral decorations displayed at an outdoor market stall in San Miguel de Allende.
Purple-draped Semana Santa shrine outside a colorful colonial building in San Miguel de Allende.
Statue of Mary during Semana Santa in San Miguel de Allende.
Procession through a San Miguel de Allende courtyard with fountain during Viernes de Dolores.
Colorful Day of the Dead skeleton figure on a red building balcony decorated with flowers during Semana Santa in San Miguel de Allende.

Palm SundaY (Domingo de Ramos)


The following day, as a warm up to Palm Sunday, we also saw a small procession of worshippers carrying their palm fronds to one of the main chapels in the city. That day, we also saw street vendors preparing to sell crosses woven from palm fronds for people to use during the following day’s processions.

Black and white photo of a band performing outdoors at a traditional Mexican Palm Sunday celebration with procession members watching.
Black and white photo of a Palm Sunday procession led by a priest entering La Parroquia cathedral in San Miguel de Allende.
Black and white photo of vendors selling goods outside the San Miguel de Allende cathedral.
Handmade palm leaf crucifixes with purple cloth displayed on church steps during a Palm Sunday in Mexico.
Close up image of Mexican Palm Sunday floral decorations.
Three children stand near a tree, holding colorful toys and crafts in a Mexian park.

Palm Sunday itself started off with an early morning re-enactment of Jesus entering Jerusalem on a donkey. ‘Christ’ headed down San Miguel de Allende’s cobbled street of San Francisco with his 12 apostles, to the temple of the same name.

Black and white photo of a cobblestone street Palm Sunday parade with bunting flags and people in traditional dress amid incense.
Black and white photo of San Miguel de Allende's Palm Sunday procession on a cobblestone street, with Christ riding a donkey led by a guide.
Colorful Palm Sunday procession in San Miguel de Allende, with Christ riding a donkey down a cobblestone street.

Later in the day, a much larger procession wound up a gorgeous narrow street overhung by palm fronds and banners, and strewn with fragrant chamomile, lavender and dill, to the main plaza and church. There was so much chamomile – manzanilla in Spanish – that it formed a carpet on the cobbled streets.

Colorful pink and white triangular bunting flags strung across a narrow street between buildings under a clear blue sky.
Elderly woman sorting fresh herbs beside a large basin against a vibrant red wall outdoors.
A Mexican woman's elderly hands holding a delicate chamomile bouquet with yellow ribbon outdoors.
Woman scattering chamomile flowers on a cobblestone street during a Palm Sunday procession in colorful San Miguel de Allende.
Person walking two small Chihuahua dogs on leashes along a cobblestone sidewalk in a colorful Mexican street.
Man carrying wooden crosses and crafts on a cobblestone street in colorful San Miguel de Allende during Palm Sunday festival.

There must have been about a couple of thousand people waving palm fronds and banners representing local churches, as well as marching bands, and a large statue of Jesus on a donkey, carried by local strongmen.

Mexican Palm Sunday procession with altar servers in red robes carrying cross through cobblestone street lined with spectators.
Palm Sunday procession with cross banner and palm fronds arching over a crowded street during Easter celebration.
Mexican Palm Sunday street procession with palm leaf arches and crowds celebrating a traditional religious festival outdoors.
Catholic priest in white vestments leads Palm Sunday procession with parishioners in red through a festive street.
Catholic priests in red vestments lead a Palm Sunday procession, carrying palm fronds in a colorful outdoor ceremony.
Musicians in white uniforms march through a colorful cobblestone street during a festive parade in a historic Mexican town.
Marching band drummers in white uniforms playing snare drums at Mexican Palm Sunday festival.
Elderly Mexican woman in white shawl holds palm cross during Palm Sunday procession with other worshippers.
Black and white photo of a Mexican man in a cowboy hat and plaid shirt at a Palm Sunday procession with crowds behind him.
Colorful Mexican religious procession with a statue of Christ on a donkey through a festive street adorned with palm arches and flowers.
Black and white photo of elderly Mexican woman holding cross and palm during Palm Sunday procession ceremony.
Black and white photo of a joyful Mexican woman holding palm leaves and balloons at an outdoor Palm Sunday celebration.

Mojigangas - Giant Puppets!


On one of the days wandering around San Miguel de Allende, I came across a wedding procession. Like the Palm Sunday callejoneada, it headed up the cobbled streets and finished outside San Miguel de Allende’s 17th-century neo-Gothic cathedral, La Parroquia.


The procession included a couple of giant puppets, called mojigangas, representing the bride and groom. Mojigangas were also popular on other days during Holy Week. I felt sorry for the puppeteers carrying these 15 foot tall puppets, as they typically weigh at least 20kg. You can see their faces peering out from inside the costumes.

Two colorful Dia de los Muertos skeleton mojigangas parade down a cobblestone street in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
Colorful traditional mojiganga in floral headdress poses before a vibrant red colonial building in San Miguel de Allende.
Colorful giant mojiganga puppet figure in red dress with blonde hair parading through narrow Mexican colonial streets under blue sky.
Two colorful mojiganga giant puppets in traditional Mexican dress at San Miguel de Allende festival.
Giant puppet bride with colorful floral headdress in parade on cobblestone street in Mexico.
Giant mojiganga puppet bride and groom figures parade through colorful Mexican streets with festive crowd in San Miguel de Allende.
Bride and groom mojiganga puppets pose in front of San Miguel de Allende's pink Gothic cathedral, La Parroquia, in Mexico.

Holy Wednesday (Miercoles Santo)


On the Wednesday of Easter week, Holy Wednesday, there was a big procession involving locals dressed up as Roman soldiers. A highlight of this procession was the angelitas – little girls all dressed in white.

Black and white photo of a Holy Wednesday procession with a decorated cross and incense smoke in San Miguel de Allende town square.
Colorful religious street procession in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with historic colonial buildings.
Traditional religious procession with Roman centurions on a cobblestone street in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
A statue of Christ carried in a festive procession under purple banners on a sunny street in Mexico.
Young girls in white dresses parade through a historic Mexican plaza during a traditional religious procession ceremony.
Young girls in white lace dresses with purple sashes and floral crowns participate in a Mexican religious ceremony.
Mexican girls in white dresses with purple sashes carry flower baskets in a traditional religious procession ceremony.
Young girls in purple and white robes march in a religious procession on a cobblestone street in Mexico.
Religious procession in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with angelitas in white dresses carrying crosses and statues.

Good Friday (Viernes Santo) in SMA


Semana Santa’s most important ceremony is held on Good Friday: the Procession of the Holy Burial, which has been taking place in San Miguel de Allende for nearly 300 years. It started from the Oratorio de San Felipe shortly before dusk, and finished in darkness, lit by the lanterns carried by the participants.


The procession also included Roman soldiers, marching under the Easter moon, followed by men and women dressed in black. The women wore black lace mantillas on their heads, white gloves, and many were wearing black high heels or even stilettos. That might sound pretty uncomfortable on the uneven cobblestones, and it is deliberately so – many women do so as a form of penance.

Roman soldiers in ornate red costumes march through a cobblestone street during a Good Friday parade in San Miguel de Allende.
Roman soldiers in ornate armor march in a traditional religious parade through a colorful San Miguel de Allende streets.
Roman soldier leads a traditional religious procession through colorful streets in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with a background moon.
Virgin Mary statue carried in a Good Friday procession with moon visible in the blue sky above San Miguel de Allende.
Red building with bunting flags, full moon in blue sky, and lush green tree in warm evening light.
Mexican men and women dressed in black carrying ornate lanterns on poles during Mexican Good Friday ceremony.
Mexican women in black dresses with white gloves and veils carry religious statues during a solemn Catholic Good Friday procession.
Religious procession in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with participants in black robes carrying a saint statue past colonial buildings.
Black and white photo of women in black attire with mantillas walking during a nighttime religious procession in San Miguel de Allende.
Mexican man in suit carrying a lantern at dusk during outdoor Good Friday procession in San Miguel de Allende.
Young Mexican girl dressed as an angel with white wings performs in a nighttime Good Friday street procession in San Miguel de Allende.

Easter Sunday - the Firing of the Judases


Easter Sunday (Domingo de Pascua) is quite light-hearted compared to some of the solemn events in the days before. The highlight is the ‘Firing of the Judases’.


This old tradition comes from Spain, where carpenters would make wooden dolls representing Judas. During Easter these dolls would be hung and burned in town squares to punish Judas for betraying Christ. But in Mexico, during the period of the Inquisition, Mexicans made dolls and dressed them like Spanish Inquisitors instead.


These days, the current tradition is to make giant papier maché dolls or puppets dressed and painted to resemble political and public figures who are not currently in favour with the public. They are then hung and blown up with fireworks. No surprises then as to who the most ‘popular’ puppet was ...


After all the puppets exploded, 'kids' – both small and large – rushed to pick up recognisable puppet heads and limbs that had survived intact.

Colorful Easter Sunday street festival in San Miguel de Allende with Mexican woman lighting a giant puppet.
Easter Sunday street festival in San Miguel de Allende with Mexican woman stepping back after lighting a giant puppet.
Colorful puppet figure atop a building with smoke and fireworks during a Easter Sunday street celebration in Mexico.
Fireworks explode around a colorful puppet suspended mid-air during a festive street celebration in a historic Mexican town.
A colorful puppet exploding over a San Miguel de Allende street with smoke and debris filling the air between tall buildings.
A puppet in a blue suit being prepared to be lifted into the air during a vibrant Easter Sunday festival in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
A puppet in blue jacket holds a sign at a sunny street festival in a colorful Mexican hillside town.
A large puppet figure being lifted above a littered street during a colorful Mexican Easter Sunday celebration.
Colorful large puppets hang over a festive street in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with smoke and red colonial buildings.
A blue-suited figure puppet soars on wires above a misty street between historic brick buildings under a hazy sky.
Colorful puppet figure launches into smoky sky above urban buildings during festive street celebration.
Crowd gathers around a red devil puppet head at a colorful Mexican Easter Sunday parade in San Miguel de Allende's main plaza.

The streets of San Miguel de Allende


For the days in between the callejoneadas, we explored the narrow alleyways of San Miguel de Allende, with their beautiful doorways and windows. It was also a great opportunity for people watching, including the mariachis. But for me, one of the highlights was coming across an old pharmacy, guarded by a gorgeous Weimaraner.

A woman in an orange outfit and hat walks along a cobblestone street beside a vibrant red colonial building in sunlight.
A man in a cowboy hat sells colorful balloons under large trees by a rustic brick wall in a Mexican town square.
Indigenous woman vendor carrying a wicker basket of colorful crafts on a rustic street in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
Colorful traditional Mexican rag dolls with vibrant fabric dresses and floral headpieces displayed in a rustic wooden setting.
A religious mural of the Virgin Mary in a stone wall niche beside a Mexican street vendor balancing a tall stack of hats.
Ornate white-framed window with iron bars on a vibrant red wall, featuring decorative stonework in colonial Mexican style.
Vintage rusty Pemex gas pump outside a historic stone building in San Miguel de Allende on a sunny day.
Mariachi band playing guitars in traditional black suits with red bow ties outdoors.
Mariachi musicians in traditional charro suits playing violins on a street in Mexico.
Cozy bar interior with patrons sitting at a counter, backlit liquor shelves, warm Edison bulb lighting, and tiki decor.
A Weimaraner dog rests on a counter inside a charming vintage pharmacy shop filled with shelves of bottles and goods.
Historic pink adobe building with ornate wooden door, wall sconces, and decorative relief sign in a Mexican colonial town.
Pink Mexican building with blue flower pots lining a staircase, featuring barred windows and colorful blooms under a clear sky.
Black and white photo of a Mexican street vendor carrying fruit plates on a cobblestone street in San Miguel de Allende.
Black and white photo of a pigeon casting a shadow on a cobblestone street.
Black and white photo of a man crossing a cobblestone street with a car and pedestrians in the background.
Cobblestone street in San Miguel de Allende with colorful colonial buildings and a Mexican flag displayed on a historic facade.
Two children walk past colorful red and orange colonial buildings on a cobblestone street in San Miguel de Allende.
Colorful Mexican street scene with vibrant murals depicting traditional dancers on orange walls under a full moon.
Young child playing with colorful water at an outdoor fountain in warm sunlight.
Ornate tiered fountain silhouetted against a golden sunset in a bustling Mexican plaza with people and market stalls.
Golden hour light bathes a historic Mexican street with colonial architecture and a church spire in San Miguel de Allende.